How Routes Are Set for Competitions — and Why It Matters

When you walk into a climbing competition, it’s easy to focus on the climbers and the crowd. But behind every successful event lies a carefully designed set of climbs — the result of hours of planning, creativity, and testing by professional route setters. The process of setting competition routes is a fascinating blend of sport science and art — and it’s one of the biggest factors in how fair and exciting a competition turns out to be.

What Does a Route Setter Actually Do?

Route setting for competitions is all about creating challenges that separate skill levels fairly while showcasing a variety of techniques. It’s not just putting holds on a wall — it’s choreographing movement. <img src=”https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1558779248-fb1b02b1b504?w=1200″ alt=”Route setter adjusting climbing holds” style=”width:100%;height:auto;”>

Setters choose each hold’s shape, angle, and position to build a journey up the wall. In competitions, the goal is to test every aspect of a climber’s ability — strength, balance, coordination, problem-solving, and composure under pressure.

In the UK, competitions often follow BMC or IFSC guidelines. This ensures routes are fair, safe, and consistent, no matter which wall or event you’re at.

The Process of Setting a Competition Route

Every setter has their own style, but most competition routes are created through a similar process:

Planning the route – The head setter designs how the route should flow. They consider wall angle, hold variety, and the level of the athletes.
Selecting holds and volumes – Every hold has a purpose. Some force precision footwork; others create dynamic moves or balance challenges.
Building the route – Holds are bolted onto the wall according to the plan. For lead competitions, clipping points are added for safety.
Forerunning (testing) – Before the event, the setters or test climbers try each route. If it’s too easy or too hard, adjustments are made.
Marking and final checks – Start holds, finishing holds, and scoring zones are marked clearly so judges can assess every attempt accurately.

It’s a process that can take days, not hours. The end result should strike a perfect balance — routes that challenge the best while still allowing lower-ranked climbers to show what they can do.

The Art of Balance

Good route setting is about balance — between styles, difficulty levels, and body types. <img src=”https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1580910051073-23d4928cabc4?w=1200″ alt=”Climber attempting a dynamic move in a competition” style=”width:100%;height:auto;”>

A strong competition route doesn’t just reward power; it rewards intelligence and adaptability. The best setters design problems that require climbers to read the wall and commit to a plan.

In the UK, setters often work across a wide range of events — from grassroots comps at local walls to national finals. Each audience needs something different. A youth competition might focus on learning movement, while an elite round will test control, risk, and decision-making.

Why Route Setting Matters

There’s a lot riding on good route setting — not just for the athletes, but for everyone involved in the event.

1. Fairness and Consistency

Routes that are too easy or too hard can ruin the flow of a competition. Setters aim for “separation” — ensuring that performances genuinely reflect skill.

2. Spectator Experience

Exciting moves and clear progression keep the crowd engaged. A good boulder problem tells a story, building suspense right up to the final hold.

3. Athlete Development

Well-set routes push climbers to improve. They encourage smarter route reading, stronger movement variety, and better composure under time pressure.

4. Safety and Structure

Route setters work closely with event organisers and judges to ensure every climb meets strict safety standards. Holds must be secure, mats properly placed, and spacing carefully considered.

What Makes a Great Route Setter?

Great route setters blend technical expertise with creativity. They understand movement deeply — not just what’s possible, but what’s fun to attempt. They also have a good sense of empathy: being able to imagine what the climber will experience, and how the route will feel under competition pressure.

In the UK, many setters start as climbers themselves, gradually gaining experience at local walls before progressing to national or IFSC-level events.

Common Challenges in Route Setting

Even the most experienced setters face challenges. Some of the most common include:

Over-setting: making a route too complex or unreadable.
Under-setting: making it too straightforward, leading to multiple tops.
Height bias: creating moves that favour taller or shorter climbers.
Lack of testing: not allowing enough time for proper forerunning.

Every setter learns from experience — and good events provide feedback loops so that each year’s competition improves on the last.

How Route Setting Shapes the Competition Scene

Across the UK, route setting is helping shape the next generation of climbers. From youth leagues in local gyms to British Championship finals, the quality of the climbs determines not just who wins, but how climbers grow. <img src=”https://images.unsplash.com/photo-1593620024860-02e714216b74?w=1200″ alt=”Climbing competition in the UK” style=”width:100%;height:auto;”>

Good setting encourages diverse movement styles, mental resilience, and fair play — all key parts of competitive climbing.
And for walls hosting competitions, investing in skilled setters builds credibility and trust within the community.

Quick Tips for Walls Hosting Competitions

If your climbing wall runs events, route setting should never be an afterthought. Here are a few quick reminders:

Hire or train qualified setters familiar with UK competition standards.
Allow testing time before the event.
Mix dynamic, technical, and power-based movements.
Collect feedback from competitors afterwards.
Keep routes fresh — regular resets encourage climbers to return.

The Takeaway

Route setting is the foundation of every climbing competition. It defines the atmosphere, fairness, and flow of the event — and shapes how athletes perform under pressure.
Behind every top, every fall, and every cheer, there’s a setter who spent hours ensuring that the climb was worth it.