Route reading is one of the most important skills a climber can develop, whether you’re bouldering in your local gym or preparing for a UK climbing competition. Understanding a route before you start climbing helps conserve energy, avoid mistakes, and improve your overall performance. This guide will walk you through practical strategies to read routes like a pro.
1. Study the Route from the Ground
Before touching the wall, spend time visually inspecting the route. Look for the start and finish, note the colour of holds, and identify potential cruxes (the hardest sections). Pay attention to the spacing of holds and the overall shape of the wall—whether it’s overhung, vertical, or slab. This gives you a roadmap and reduces surprises during the climb.
2. Identify Key Holds and Rest Points
Mark holds that will require extra strength or precision, and locate areas where you can rest. Planning your rest points is crucial, especially in longer or more difficult routes. Efficient use of rests conserves energy and helps maintain control throughout the climb.
3. Visualise Your Sequence
Try to mentally rehearse the moves from start to finish. Think about hand and foot placements, body positioning, and transitions between holds. Visualisation improves memory and coordination, making it easier to execute moves efficiently once you’re on the wall.
4. Check the Footwork
Many climbers focus too much on handholds and neglect their feet. Identify footholds and plan how you will shift your weight to maintain balance. Proper foot placement reduces strain on your arms and improves overall climbing efficiency.
5. Anticipate the Crux
Every route has a challenging section. Identify the crux during your route read and plan strategies to overcome it, whether that means adjusting your body position, using a specific hold, or taking an extra rest before attempting it. Knowing what’s coming reduces the likelihood of getting stuck mid-route.
6. Observe Other Climbers
If possible, watch others attempt the route. Even a single observation can reveal strategies, sequences, and potential pitfalls you might not notice from the ground alone. Pay attention to balance, grip techniques, and how climbers handle transitions.
7. Adjust During the Climb
Route reading isn’t just about pre-climb observation. Be ready to adapt as you go. Holds may feel different than expected, or your body might need an alternative sequence. Flexible thinking ensures you can handle unexpected challenges without panicking.
Final Thoughts
Reading a route effectively combines observation, planning, and mental rehearsal. By taking the time to study a climb, identify key moves, visualise sequences, and anticipate cruxes, you’ll climb more efficiently, conserve energy, and improve your performance in both training and competitions across the UK. Make route reading a habit—it’s a skill that separates good climbers from great climbers.