The Main Types of Climbing Competitions Explained: Bouldering, Lead, and Speed

Introduction

Climbing competitions come in all shapes and sizes, but nearly every event falls into one of three main categories: Bouldering, Lead, and Speed.
Each format challenges climbers in a different way — from problem-solving and power to endurance and explosive speed.

If you’ve ever watched a climbing comp and wondered what exactly is going on, this guide breaks it down simply. Whether you’re new to the sport or just curious about how the events differ, here’s what each type involves.

🧗‍♂️ Bouldering Competitions

What Is Bouldering?

Bouldering competitions are all about short, powerful climbs — known as problems — on walls typically around 4 to 5 metres high.
There are no ropes involved; instead, thick mats provide protection if climbers fall.

Each route (or “problem”) is a puzzle of movement. Competitors have to work out the best sequence of holds and body positions to reach the top hold and show control.

How It Works

Climbers are usually given a set amount of time (often 4 or 5 minutes) to attempt each problem.
They can try as many times as they like within that window.
Points are awarded for reaching certain holds — usually a zone hold halfway up and the top hold at the finish.
Fewer attempts mean a better score.

Bouldering is as much about problem-solving and efficiency as it is about raw strength. It’s exciting, fast-paced, and a crowd favourite at climbing walls across the UK.

🧗 Lead Climbing Competitions

What Is Lead Climbing?

Lead climbing competitions test endurance, focus, and control.
Climbers tackle tall routes — usually around 12 to 20 metres high — while clipping their rope into quickdraws as they go. The aim is simple: climb as high as possible before falling or the time runs out.

How It Works

Each competitor climbs a single route, one at a time, without seeing anyone else climb it first (known as “isolation”).
There’s a time limit — generally 6 minutes — to reach the top.
The further up the wall you climb, the more points you score.
Falling stops your attempt, and your score is based on the highest hold reached.

Lead comps reward technical precision and stamina. You’ll often see climbers resting on tiny holds, carefully shaking out their arms, and calculating their next move.

It’s a slower, more tactical format — and it’s where subtle technique can really outshine brute strength.

⚡ Speed Climbing Competitions

What Is Speed Climbing?

Speed climbing is the most straightforward to understand — it’s a race to the top.
Two climbers go head-to-head on identical routes, and the fastest time wins.

The route itself never changes: it’s a standardised 15-metre wall used around the world, so every competitor knows the layout by heart.

How It Works

Competitors climb simultaneously on two identical lanes.
The fastest climbers advance through elimination rounds until a winner is crowned.
The current world-class times are under five seconds — it’s over almost as soon as it starts!

Speed climbing favours explosive power and perfect coordination. It’s visually impressive and has brought new energy to climbing as a spectator sport.

🧩 Combined or Mixed Formats

Some competitions combine multiple disciplines — for example, boulder + lead events that reward all-round skill.
Climbers must adapt between short, powerful problems and long endurance routes, proving their versatility.

This mixed approach has grown in popularity, especially since climbing became part of the Olympic Games, where combined formats first appeared.

🏁 Final Thoughts

Climbing competitions might share the same walls and chalky handholds, but each type — bouldering, lead, and speed — demands something unique from the climber.
Bouldering favours creativity and power, lead rewards endurance and precision, and speed celebrates explosive athleticism.

Whether you’re planning to enter your first comp or just enjoy watching others compete, understanding these formats makes the experience far more engaging.

So next time you visit your local wall and see a competition poster, you’ll know exactly what kind of challenge it’s offering — and maybe feel tempted to give it a go yourself.